Monday 31 October 2016

1st November 2016 - Bagaman Island (PNG, Louisiades)

Tuesday 1st November 2016

Today in Hobart it is…cold and blustery; warm and sunny; overcast and brilliantly blue – all within a few minutes.  Challenging and fascinating!  I am enjoying being able to wear what I consider to be “real” clothes – socks and boots, black trousers, long-sleeved t-shirt under long jumper.  Proper clothes!  Comfy and warm!

Michael is on 2XS in Breakwater Marina, taking care of business.  He has been fishing and is looking forward to catching some big ones. Yesterday he and his friend Adam, fishing rods aloft, watched as some workers on a large boat further down the pontoon carefully lifted a broken pump out of the boat and on to the pontoon.  Or rather, they tried to…There was a gap of less than a metre and yes, oops, down went the 100-kilo pump, down down down into the dark waters of the marina.  The poor apprentice had to dive in to try to hoick it out.  Michael very kindly lent him some goggles…The water is murky and…there are, potentially, crocodiles!

Bagaman Island Sunday



Sunday morning we both went for a long swim.  It was Pete’s first time in the water for many weeks.  He hasn’t been able to get his leg wet in salty water because of his festy wound but it is now all healed up.

Erica
At eleven(ish) Moses came to get us in the banana boat, to take us to church.  He and Lyla belong to a minority church with a very small congregation. 


There was an hour or so to wait before everything got under way, so we strolled along to Simon’s house and sat on the veranda with a large group of giggly children.

Rose
I handed out bracelets, which were wildly popular with the girls.


We all sat in the airy little school hall where – oh joy – there were two plastic chairs.  (I really don’t enjoy sitting on the floor…every bone in my body aches and creaks and complains!)  The first part of the service was very nice – lots of singing, in harmony.  And then a VERY VERY long sermon, NOT in English, by a severe woman who seemed to be haranguing the poor three or four worshippers in no uncertain terms.  I was SO grateful to have a chair!  Eustace, the minister, very kindly said that we probably didn’t need to stay for the second half, which was a long session on how to prepare a sermon, so Pete and I were set free to wander along the beach, with two faithful small boys (Emanon And Elijah – Elijah is Lyla’s son, a year or so older than Mark) making sure we were safe and behaving ourselves.


There was a big sailau pulled up on the beach, and much activity surrounding it.  It was, apparently, due to leave within the hour, taking a cargo of children and food to school on Moturina Island, about two hours sail away.  

Loading the sail
The children were to stay there for ten weeks, keeping themselves fed from the supply of bananas, plantains, taro and dried fish being loaded aboard.  Well…we know about boarding school, in PNG.  If you don’t bring your own food, you starve, or go home!

Sailing off to school
All along the beach in the shallows there were small boys sailing model canoes.  We thought these were just lovely, and they sailed most beautifully, skimming across the sea.  



Occasionally they would disappear towards the ocean, but everyone was calm about this – they will come back, apparently.  The boys just set the sails, tweaking them expertly, give them a shove, and off they go.  



No strings, no remote control!




Sunday 30 October 2016

31st October 2016 - Bagaman Island hospitality

Monday 31st October 2016

Tired but happy at Hobart airport
Yesterday was warm and balmy in Hobart; today it will be cool and clear.  So nice to have variations in temperature again!  We are very busily and happily  catching up with friends and relations.  Of the food!  Oh the love!

Bagaman hospitality

Sailau at dusk
We have given a lot of goods to our Bagaman friends.  The boat was, after all, loaded with donations for the Louisiades in 2013…But the islanders have been scrupulous in their generosity to us in return.

Moses caught a big Spanish mackerel on his first epic stay on 2XS
Dinner at the Gulo house was all very pleasant.  I find it a bit difficult having to sit on the floor…nobody has tables or chairs, or indeed any furniture at all.  We asked, for example, where Gulo and Mrs Gulo (Sanity) sleep and Gulo pointed at the hard wooden floor…my bones ached at the thought of it!  Moses, Lyla and the three little boys sleep on a wooden platform in an annexe.  I asked if anyone has mattresses and Moses said, wistfully, “No.  And remember when I slept on your boat, when you took me to Misima?  I thought I had gone to heaven!”

Local island lobster, so pretty, so delicious!
We sat around, under a solar light, and had a drink (Pete had brought beer and wine, which we drank in mugs.)  There were about five men, about ten small boys, and…me.  Sanity and Lyla were in the kitchen annexe, banished from our sight.  Lyla made a brief appearance and put the food on the mat in front of us.  Lobster for Pete and me, vegetables, rice.  We had to eat while they all watched.  The men watched politely; the little boys watched hungrily.  When we had eaten, the men ate, then the boys got the leftovers.  Lyla and Sanity had apparently eaten on their own in the kitchen…We did have a nice time; the food was very good, and we were made to feel very welcome. 

Pete's 2011 head wound
And Pete didn’t stand up suddenly under a sharp wooden beam; we left unscathed!


The next night was dinner at Letma and Ali’s house, in a stony little cove in the curve of the bay.  They live in an idyllic setting, with their own little bit of beach, some sheltering greenery, a garden of flowers, fruit, vegetables.  Ali built the house himself, and apologised for its simplicity.  It is, of course, just beautiful, with a wide verandah, where we sat for an hour or so before dinner was ready.  Beautiful but…very empty, although I noticed one or two cushions on the sleeping platform, where the three little boys sleep with their mother and father and, at the other end of the platform, under the eaves, a big pile of taro. 

2XS from Letma and Ali's cove
Dinner was delicious.  Local veggies and – four boiled lobster to share!